Sewing machines: principle of operation, types, selection and use

Sewing machines seem to be a very simple and even primitive product. However, many have little idea of ​​their principle of operation and basic types, as well as how such things appeared. Meanwhile, only knowledgeable people can make a competent choice and use a sewing machine.

It is generally accepted that sewing machines were invented in the second half of the 18th century. Initially, they tried to simplify sewing directly, reproducing manual work as accurately as possible. The effectiveness of this method turned out to be extremely low.

And almost no one, except the inventors themselves, needed such devices. Everything changed in 1814, when a tailor from Austria named Josef Madersperger invented a needle that has an eyelet at the sharp end.

Over the course of several years, engineers in different countries began to think about how to use such a needle in obtaining a mechanized stitch. An official patent for a sewing machine more or less close to the modern model was issued in 1830 by Barthélemy Timonier.

This development has already allowed the creation of a sewing factory. The next improvement was made by Elias Howe. This US citizen introduced the lockstitch to the world in 1845. This method allowed the machine to sew up to 300 stitches per minute.

Over the next few years, designs improved rapidly. Engineers tried to develop both horizontal and vertical sewing. The mass distribution of sewing machines not in industry, but for home use, however, is already associated with the name of Isaac Singer.

The perfection of the products he invented is such that they have become antiques, and some of the items continue to regularly connect the fabric in the 21st century. The most successful of the early variants (with the "swing shuttle") was also introduced by Singer in 1850.

This brand gained worldwide fame by the mid-1860s. Until the end of the 19th century, there was a real boom in sewing machines, and then a number of companies appeared that are widely known to those interested in our days.

Now the following models are classified as antiques:

• Borletti;
• Butterfly;
• Soviet "Seagull-2";
• "Seagull-132";
• Csepel;
• Mini Jaguar;
• Adolf Knoch;
• Kochler.

The first sewing machines produced in the USSR date back to 1923. At that time, it was a rather complex production (about the same level as the production of cars today). Products cost accordingly. It is curious that the perfection of the Singer designs allowed them to be released unchanged for several decades in a row. Even the design, which eventually became a characteristic feature of Podolsk products, was carefully preserved.

Over the past century and a half, sewing machines have been significantly improved. Not only electrified, but even electronic designs appeared. However, the main "core" remained unchanged and, apparently, will remain in the same form forever. Both handheld and motorized devices always have:

• flywheels;
• winding devices;
• sleeves;
• needle holders;
• receivers (allowing to reverse);
• pattern selection wheels;
• racks for sewing sleeves;
• needle plates;
• special platforms.

But all these details are easy to see when examining the device from the outside. And the main part of any machine that works successfully is the shuttle. The most important part of the shuttle is the spool. It is on her that you have to pay constant attention when sewing. The role of the bobbin is to dispense threads to the main knots. This process is automated. Requires the thread to be inserted into a special slot. The system is carefully tuned to prevent skipping individual stitches.

Continuing your acquaintance with the sewing machine diagram, you need to pay attention to one more detail - the spout. It prevents the spool from falling out of the spool. The design is well developed and well balanced. It is almost impossible even to violate it on purpose without following the instructions of the instructions. The shuttle is cut in a special profile. A special connecting rod connection is responsible for its correct movement.

The needle, moving along a certain path, passes down the captured upper thread. Then this thread is taken by the shuttle. With its help, the upper and lower threads are intertwined. Everything seems to be simple, but such an elegant solution already allows you to sew in a zigzag and even create chic patterns. Some models have side needles that simplify the processing of fabric along the edges, but it is almost impossible to find such machines in a regular store.

There is a drive inside the body of the sewing machine. In mechanical devices, it moves due to the muscular strength of a person. More advanced models use an electric motor. It is from the drive that the mechanical impulse goes to the connecting rod.

All sewing machines are designed for long-term use, and therefore they try to make them as durable as possible.

The lubricant is applied through special holes. You do not need to disassemble the car for this. If you take good care of the equipment, it will easily last 40-50 years. Advanced options include a foot pedal. Modern designers are increasingly trying to use not a mechanical, but an electromechanical pedal in order to further simplify the work.

A very important process of advancing the fabric is carried out with the help of the main shaft. The connecting rod connects it to the flywheel axis. Further, a pair of rods rotates synchronously on the sides.It is their twisting that pushes the broaching mechanism. One of the rods is supplemented with a "dovetail". It moves back and forth along the course of the sewn matter. On the second axis there is a cam that raises and lowers the dovetail itself. He already transmits a mechanical impulse to special teeth. And these teeth rotate in place.

Sewing machines have another screw that controls the thread tension.

The main classification of household sewing machines implies their division into three types:

• purely mechanical devices;
• electromechanical devices;
• computerized systems.

Historically, the first type appeared earlier than others. Designs of this kind reached their peak of perfection by the beginning of the twentieth century. But even on these, and even on older machines, you can sew quite well. The main thing is to correctly debug the device. Mechanical "Singer" and slightly newer "Podolsk" are mainly used for straight stitching.

More advanced "mechanics" can even make a "zigzag" stitch. This is typical for models from the "Seagull" family. Mechanical cars are almost forever... But such devices cannot boast of great functionality. In addition, they must be individually adjusted for all types of fabrics.

The vast majority of modern sewing machines are equipped with an electromechanical drive. This addition significantly expands the number of available manipulations. You can easily:

• darn;
• hem buttons;
• form seams of various types;
• set the required stitch by scrolling a special wheel.

Computer sewing machine even more functional and sophisticated. All such models have a built-in microprocessor. Screen embedding is also provided. The number of working steps can be more than 100. The automatic system gives hints for the selection of fabric and determination of the pressure force. There are many such models in the assortment of Brother, Bernina.

The cost of such a technique is high, but this fee is offset by the ability to perform very complex manipulations. The most expensive versions have an embroidery unit and can memorize the sequence of actions. Such a solution means a qualitatively new level of assembly. And very high requirements are imposed on the components.

It is customary to distinguish between shuttle and chain machines. Some industry studies show that the share shuttle technology accounts for at least 75% of all work performed.

If you plan to work with leather and similar durable fabrics, you should give preference columnar machine.

Deserves attention and sleeve modification... Contrary to the name, it is needed not only when working with outerwear. Such machines allow stitching leather shoes and blanks for them in hard-to-reach places. It is also possible to work with bags and leather goods. It is noted that the sleeve sewing machines are suitable for home use. This option makes it easier to work with sleeves, trousers.

Therefore, mentioning it in the description is nothing more than a clever marketing ploy.

Hemming machine, unlike the traditional lockstitch, is quite useful. It is often used when you need to sew trousers or a dress. Such a device allows you to sew according to the allowance without going to the front side.

Some versions have a spacer block that allows the hem to puncture through 1 or 2 stitches. The purpose of this gap is to reduce the visibility of punctures on fine fabric.

Two-plunger (having a pair of squeezers) apparatus makes it possible to form completely closed lines between the main part and the allowance.

If not limited to serious servo tech, you can give preference to a mini-stick (in another spelling - mini-stecher). Its purpose is to repair small items. And not only small ones, but also curtains and bed linen. The mass of mini-stickers is from 0.1 to 0.3 kg.

Stickers are simple and usually do not have electronic components. You do not need to have any experience with stationary devices to use a road car. In this case, it will be possible to complete all the most common stitching and sewing options. It is quite possible to work with a wide variety of types of fabrics. The basic principle of connection is the same as that of the stapler. If we return to stationary sewing machines, then among them one should distinguish between models with a plastic and a metal case. The first type is easier. But the second is more reliable and stable. All old models are made only of metal and wood. There is also a difference in the number of needles.

The single-needle machine has too few capabilities. Even for home use, you will often have to use a two-needle model. It allows you to lead a couple of parallel lines. You can also:

• scribble allowances;
• produce belts;
• handle belts and straps.

Often in the descriptions of sewing machines they mention the top conveyor. This is the name of the "walking foot" (replacing the usual presser foot), which helps to advance the fabric from above. As a result, the two folded layers of matter move simultaneously and uniformly. Wrinkles and other consequences of uneven processing disappear. Also, the top conveyors are relevant when you have to handle thin sliding material.

Deserve a separate conversation bartackers... They form short stitches (bartacks) - hence the name. Such devices can be both automatic and semi-automatic. The process is very simple: after applying a single line stitch, it is wrapped around with additional thread or threads.

It is appropriate to end the review at buttonhole sewing machines... All such models can automatically lay simple and eyelet loops. Often, the mechanical device itself is in charge of the overedging cycle. But in more advanced versions, there is software control, which significantly expands the capabilities of sewing machines. For example, the option of creating buttonholes with a reinforced frame appears, which is very important for easily damaged and knitted fabrics.

It is impossible to choose a good manual or automatic sewing machine without being interested in the features of the shuttle. For beginners, just mastering the art of sewing will certainly do. pendulum device... This constructive solution has been used very actively in the past. Now it can be found only in products of the budget category. But even they have been significantly improved - now there is no need, as in the same "Podolsk", to manually configure the system.

Double wrap-around vertical shuttle - the opposite of the "pendulum". So much so that this device can only be found inside expensive professional models. It is appreciated for its combination of impressive speed and wear resistance. When using such a system, even intensive work is extremely rarely accompanied by the appearance of defective lines.

Horizontal shuttle - the "quietest" and mostly found in mid-range devices, however, it requires complex settings.

This point, too, cannot be avoided when discussing the technical characteristics of sewing machines. One-piece zigzag makes it possible to process the cut surface.Narrow zigzags help seam stretch fabrics and knitwear. A double zigzag helps to sew the braid and connect its edges. The blind stitch mode allows you to sew the bottom of various products; this requires a special foot.

Also may be present:

• decorative seams (such as a shell);
• elastic secret passage;
• three-row "stretch";
• honeycomb stitching;
• connecting line;
• some other modes.

High-quality sewing machines of mechanical and electromechanical type can only make flat loops. It is difficult to implement something radically different on such an element base. The exception is computerized equipment and household embroidery machines. In large factories, hinges are formed using specialized buttonhole machines, but trained engineers must choose them, so this topic should not be touched upon here.

The vast majority of household appliances already know how to make loops in automatic mode. You just need to monitor the translation of the foot and the length of the turns. When choosing the size of the buttonhole, you will need to focus on the button fixed in the foot.

The mechanical structures are completely independent of the mains supply. Therefore, they can be used even where there is no mains supply and is not expected. Electromechanical devices can no longer work without being connected to the mains. Special handles are used to set the required mode. In electronic sewing technique, buttons are used.

But a more advanced solution is to use sensors. In a number of stores, electronic typewriters are called machines, in which there are separate mechanical buttons. It is also necessary to distinguish between software and computer control. The latter option involves the use of the machine's own operating system. It is this solution that is optimal for designer and designer sewing.

As good as the machine itself is, it is completely useless without needles. Well, as a stand, it can only be used. Try to distribute the needles to the preferred types of fabrics.

There are also such optimal combinations (according to needle numbers):

• 80-90 - coarse calico, staple fabric and synthetics;
• 100 - denim and dense synthetic fibers;
• 110 - dense varieties of wool;
• 120 - rough cloth and sackcloth;
• 100-200 - leather, tarpaulin.

In the past, there were class 22 sewing machines. They have long been discontinued, but the 1022 class has already replaced them. This solution is perfect for ateliers and small garment factories. The symbol for this and other classes is just a derivative of the base model. The main characteristics are as follows:

• Class 97 suitable for costume fabric;
• 852 class - the same purpose, but with a pair of parallel lockstitch stitches;
• Class 51 - a frequently encountered, albeit a little outdated, type of equipment.

Perhaps the most important feature of a sewing machine is its power. It determines, among other things, the suitability of the device for heavy fabrics. At the same time, the amount of payment for housing and communal services also depends on the power of the electrical device. The power rating is always indicated on the rating plate together with the lighting devices and the control electronics. Therefore, the real force developed by the motor will always be less than the specified value.

Of the other points that need to be considered when choosing, the most noteworthy are:

• preferred fabric types;
• longest stitch length;
• zigzag width;
• automatic or semi-automatic looping;
• internal needle threader;
• point bartack;
• positioning of the needles.

Japanese cars of the brand are very popular now Janome... For example, we are talking about the 18E model. The index shows that it can handle 18 operations at once. High sewing speed (up to 400 strokes per minute) is equally important. The construction is optimized for light to moderately heavy fabrics. The reviews note the simplicity and suitability for popular works.

Kohler Is an old German brand of sewing machines. It was once very popular. But now it is of interest not as a practical product, but as antiques. A comparatively interesting model is the Zick-Zack, which is cheap.

Typewriter Zimber in general, it works and does its job well. The ZM-10918 can be powered by both batteries and mains. Problems arise when sewing thick denim. But this device will calmly “take” its thin version. The model is designed for quiet, thoughtful work. It justifies its price.

Products are also in demand Gemsy... An example is the GEM 8900H single-needle lockstitch model. It will help out those who want to work with dense and moderately dense materials. The automatic lubrication option is attractive. Users approve of this model, but indicate that assembly is a little difficult.

Leader agat - another good sewing machine. She can sew all fabrics found in everyday life. The build quality is not satisfactory. The appeal isn't too difficult either. Reliability is up to the mark.

Sewing machine DEXP SM-1200 relatively lightweight and looks good. But it has no speed regulation. The energy source is batteries. Therefore, the device is suitable where power is often cut off. Ideal for mastering sewing and basic work, but nothing more.

The company's products also deserve a separate discussion. Velles... It has been supplying sewing machines for about 20 years. Mostly the product is intended for industrial use. It should be borne in mind that in some models, the rods are not reliable enough. You need to be more careful with them.

Radom 86 - another "greetings from the old days." The model is capable of giving a straight line up to 0.5 cm wide. The manufacturer provides for the use of I20 grease and its direct analogs. The quality of the work is generally acceptable. But still, experienced craftsmen should look for something newer.

Complete the revision overview pertinent to the brand "Lada". 237th version it has a programming device. The products of this brand were manufactured in Czechoslovakia. The design is very reliable, there are copies that have worked for several decades and have retained their functionality. It is noted that "Ladas" sew relatively thin leather.

The most important points on how to use any sewing machine are given in its instructions. It describes how you can:

• overcast the edge;
• thread;
• make adjustments.

All these actions are more or less individual. Experienced seamstresses can change the device relatively easily. But the main thing is not in this, but in the general principles of working with sewing equipment. In the vast majority of models, the start button is located to the right of the operator's seat (which is quite logical). But regardless of this, the machine must be firmly supported.

Before starting work, you need to sit on a comfortable chair. The needle should be to the left and all other parts to the right. The needle should be inserted as securely as possible, that is, with the plane back. The thread is wound by placing the spool on the upper holder. The fiber must then pass through the take-up take-up and onto the bobbin. The end of the thread is left on the outside to be inserted into the needle. Some of the information is usually given not only in the manual, but also on the body of the machine. These tips shouldn't be forgotten either. After finishing work, it is imperative to clean the device and put it in order.

The sewing machine should not be used:

• outdoors;
• in an unheated room;
• in dampness;
• surrounded by corrosive and explosive substances.

On mechanical devices, the sewing speed must be carefully monitored. It is undesirable to save on needles and threads - because of them, even first-class technology can create problems. It is strictly forbidden to bring your fingers, face or other part of the body to the needle, thread into a working machine.

Even the best technique sometimes fails. When it does not grab the bobbin thread, the cause may be:

• dullness of the shuttle nose;
• incorrect needle bar calibration;
• non-synchronicity in his work and in the actions of the needle bar;
• burrs on the spool cap.

Skipped stitches - a sign of poor quality of the needle or a large gap from it to the hook. If the machine picks up the threads from the bottom, breaks them, you will have to adjust the tension. In more difficult cases, you need to work with a shuttle moving the fabric with a mechanism.

Also, people face the following problems:

• improper assembly of tensioners;
• mismatch of needles and threads;
• loosening of the bobbin case locks;
• corrosion;
• uneven winding of threads.

The Janome 2323 is great for home use. It's a simple yet powerful machine. Experienced craftsmen can also sew on it “for themselves”. The quality will not be lost.

Also praised:

• Necchi Comfort 7434 AT (for work with delicate and beautiful fabrics);
• Brother Comfort 35 A (for quality and graceful appearance);
• Singer 7467 Confidence (for an excellent balance of price and quality).

All other things being equal, cars with an LED lamp are much more practical and even more economical than models with traditional incandescent lamps. Such a light source also excludes the occurrence of burns. The edging allows, as the name suggests, to optimize the edging and speed it up. Choosing between branded and mass-market edging is largely a matter of personal taste and budget. There is still no practical difference between them.

If you plan to carry your sewing machine frequently, it is useful to get a bag where you can put it and accessories. The same bag will come in handy for safe storage if you plan to sew only periodically. It is very important to use only those oils recommended by the manufacturer for lubrication.

You will learn how to choose a sewing machine and what sewing operations are really needed in the next video.