Equipment for the aquarium and the rules for its selection

In order to create a corner of the underwater world at home, it is not enough to purchase an aquarium, you should also worry about its technical equipment. The colossal choice of basic and auxiliary aquarium equipment can be overwhelming. In this article, the conversation will focus on how to navigate the abundance of filtering devices, compressors, cooling systems, lighting devices, and so on.

By type of location filtering devices for aquariums are:

• external (external);
• internal (submersible);
• hinged;
• bottom.

Submersible filtering devices are the most affordable and therefore extremely in demand. They represent a pump that drives water through a filter element grouped with it in a common housing. Foam sponges are used as a filter element. In case of contamination, you just need to rinse the sponge and put it in the filter.

The block of the filtering device is completely submerged under water and is fixed by means of suction cups to the tank wall. If you are not satisfied with the appearance of the device in the aquarium, you can simply decorate it.

The bottom filtering device (or false bottom) forms a liquid cycle in the soil, thus forming a useful microflora in it. There are 2 modes of operation of the filtering device:

• the liquid medium after the cleaning phase is fed into the ground, leaving the upper layer of the aquarium;
• contaminated water from the aquarium is taken in by the filter through the soil.

External filter devices can be filled with a variety of cleaning components to create optimal biofiltration. Their cost is much higher than that of other types of filtering devices, but the purification quality is almost ideal (if fillers for biofiltration are used). They need cleaning less often - as a rule, no more than once every 2-3 months. To all their advantages, one must add the fact that when cleaning the filter element it is not necessary to intrude into the aquarium itself, since the apparatus is external.

Basically, the external device is used for large-volume tanks - 150-300 liters and more. It has a much wider range of filter media and, therefore, is able to process a considerable amount of harmful components that appear in the aquarium during the life of its inhabitants.

Hinged filtering devices function quite quietly and are very easy to look after. You just need to change the filler in them from time to time in order for them to function more efficiently.

All fish need oxygen, so when there is a large concentration of inhabitants in the aquarium, the compressor is the second most necessary equipment for it.

When choosing a compressor, you need to focus on its productivity. This figure depends on the capacity of your tank. To calculate the required productivity, you need to multiply the volume of liquid in the aquarium by a factor from 0.5 to 1 (depending on the type of fish that will live in the aquarium).

The most common type of compressor is outer, it does not require space in the aquarium, it is not dangerous, but it constantly makes noise. Silent submersible types of compressors, of course, take up the space of the aquarium, but they are not so in demand.

One of the most important tasks for an aquarist is to cool the water in an aquarium. There are 2 methods of technological solution to this problem.

Usually they are blocks that include one or more fans. They are fixed to the tank wall and directed obliquely towards the surface.

Pros:

• take up little space;
• do not use a lot of electricity;
• can be freely purchased at a relatively low cost (depending on the modification and type).

Minuses:

• increase the evaporation of liquid, therefore, it is often required to add water;
• can only be put on an open-type aquarium, or you need to make a special cutout for the fan in the lid.

Fans are:

• unregulated - such devices can give out extremely maximum power;
• with manual control - in these samples, you can decrease or increase the blowing power yourself (for example, by means of a toggle switch) and thereby select the optimal mode;
• absolutely controllable - with a thermostat, on which the required temperature is exposed, maintained in automatic mode by repeated starting of the fans.

This is the most efficient refrigeration equipment.With the right choice of the unit, it is able to lower the temperature by 10-20 degrees, which makes it possible not only to eliminate problems associated with the temperature in the room, but also allows it to be used for breeding cold-water fish species at home, living at temperatures from 8 to 14 ° WITH.

Pros - they they can seriously cool the liquid, they are simply installed into the system, most of the modifications provide for regulation.

Minus is pretty expensive equipment that consumes a lot of electricity. It emits a lot of moisture and heat energy depending on the type of installation, so do not place the refrigerator in an isolated and unventilated place (for example, in a small hermetically sealed cabinet).

There are 2 types of refrigerators.

1. Freon. The liquid medium enters the unit through the intake pipe, goes through the system, cools down and exits through the outlet pipe. The unit has a built-in control system that determines the temperature of the liquid at the inlet to the unit and turns it off if it converges with the set one or becomes lower. When installing the refrigerator, it is necessary to carefully compare the power of the water flow and the system for the similarity of the value indicated by the manufacturer, otherwise it can cause unproductive operation of the unit.
2. Functioning by the spray cooling method. They are connected in the same way as freon ones, but they are cooled by means of a string of powerful fans.

Carbon dioxide is needed for better plant development in the aquarium. Plants take carbon dioxide from carbon dioxide, which is a key building material for their cells.

There are 3 methods for feeding carbon monoxide into the tank:

• fermentation;
• liquid gas cylinders;
• preparations containing carbon.

In the first case, alcoholic fermentation is used to supply carbon dioxide: yeast converts sugar into alcohol and simultaneously releases carbon monoxide. Commercially available fermenters consist of a sealed tank, the carbon monoxide feed unit itself, and suction tubes.

This method is only good for small aquariums. The fermentation rate depends on the temperature, in addition, you need to pick up relatively expensive ingredients all the time. Sometimes it is required to insulate the tank, install it close to a warm aquarium or heating battery, since carbon monoxide is practically not emitted at temperatures below 20 ° C.

The second option for supplying carbon dioxide to the aquarium involves 2 ways:

• disposable carbon dioxide cylinders;
• reusable cylinders.

This is the most stable way of supplying carbon dioxide to the tank. The simplest feed unit is equipped with the following elements:

• tubes;
• feed regulator;
• Check Valve;
• air diffuser (flipper, diffuser);
• carbon dioxide cylinder.

A pressure gauge is placed on the carbon dioxide cylinder to display the pressure in the cylinder connected to the stopcock. By opening or closing the shut-off valve, the supply of carbon dioxide is increased or decreased.

The check valve prevents liquid from the aquarium from entering the pipes. Flipper breaks the incoming carbon dioxide into small bubbles. The smaller the bubbles the air diffuser forms, the more rapidly the carbon dioxide dissolves in the aquarium water and the higher the price of the air diffuser.

There are two other less popular methods of filling water with carbon monoxide:

• electrolytic;
• carbonate.

In the electrolytic method, carbon monoxide is released directly from the aquarium water by means of a carbon plate with an iron clamp and by applying a weak electric current... The current strength is adjusted by the transformer. The plate is hung in the water stream at the outlet of the filter device - this is how carbon dioxide spreads in the best way throughout the tank. Be careful with very soft water, as this device reduces the temporary hardness.

The carbonator generates carbon dioxide from a saline solution of a weak diacid by means of harmless acids and a reaction-accelerating agent. He refills once a month. This attachment is only suitable for small aquariums up to 50 liters.

Often, aquariums are already sold with lamps built into the lid. For ordinary aquariums, you can always find a suitable lamp cover or purchase a pendant or hanging lamp separately.

We must take into account the so-called calorimetric temperature of lamps, especially if you are going to settle living vegetation, which requires daylight with a temperature of 6500 to 8000 K. It must be said that calorimetric temperatures below 5000 K favor the growth of unnecessary algae.

It is necessary to calculate the power of light bulbs according to the principle of at least 0.3 W per liter of liquid. For plant aquariums, the power should be higher (from 0.5 W per liter). Grass also needs blue and red light bulbs to improve growth and photosynthesis.

Additional accessories may be required when cleaning and creating comfortable conditions for the inhabitants of the aquarium. These include:

• flute - to reduce the flow from the filter;
• feeders - with and without dispensers;
• nets - for catching and transferring fish;
• thermometers - to monitor the temperature of the water;
• cleaning kit - it includes a glass cleaner with a blade and a sponge;
• siphon for pumping out water;
• jiggers for fish;
• means for the destruction of unnecessary algae.

For information on what equipment is required for the aquarium, see the next video.